Beaujolais in southern-most Burgundy is renowned for its fruity reds. On the third Thursday in November it releases its Nouveau wines: aromatic, light, fresh and juicy new-vintage wines smelling not unlike Ribena, at best quaffing stuff, ideal served chilled. But the Gamay grape (which is 100% responsible for all Beaujolais reds) can, and does, do better. It gets going with straightforward Beaujolais and Beaujolais-Villages and peaks at the village wines (known as “Crus”): the likes of Fleurie, Morgon, Brouilly, Moulin a Vent and so on (ten in all) are almost always reliable in quality terms. They retain Gamay`s inherent taste and fruitiness yet they also offer some depth and a sense of purpose. Charcuterie and cold roast meats are ideal with Beaujolais because of the low-tannin content and fruitiness. The better wines (good Beaujolais-Villages and the Crus) will also compliment roast chicken or pork (simple pork chops are perfect with Beaujolais-Villages) – and a decent Fleurie is an ideal red wine choice for the Christmas roast turkey. In Burgundy it is the choice for Sabodet Lyonnais, Lyon`s famous boiled sausage and potato-salad dish; and it will also be the first choice wine with fish in red wine sauce.