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Italian Wines

Italy is as wine-and-food complex as it is culturally rich. Abroad its copycat pizza, pasta, polenta and risotto tends to be washed down with Chianti or Valpolicella (in red) and Pinot Grigio or Soave (in white). But the original dishes in Italy have their regional nuances, and the locally produced wines are drunk with them. In the northern region of Piedmont, for example, the local white truffle is sprinkled over risotto – giving the otherwise simple dish a distinctly Piedmontese character; and it is enjoyed with the local, perfumed and fruity reds of Dolcetto or Barbera. Indeed, the best wines have evolved from roots in food with regional differences – and since much of the food is rich and vibrant, so are the wine flavours. In Piedmont it is meat stew with Barolo and Barbaresco reds produced from the local, rich and savoury Nebbiolo grape. In Tuscany beef-steak is grilled simply with olive and salt, accompanied by Chianto Classico or Brunello di Montalcino from the local Sangiovese grape; alternatively a Supertuscan red, where a little Cabernet is blended with Sangiovese to excellent effect. In central Italy it is the black truffle which reigns supreme – and here they grate it on pasta and wash it down with the local dark and juicy Montepulciano red. In the south the NegroAmaro, Aglianico and Pimitivo (or Zinfandel) grapes prevail, all of them making food wines – and always with a local specialty dish or a method of cooking with local ingredients, to match.

The whites less so, but then the neutral, mineral quality of many of the whites tend to avoid food clashes. They don`t so much match the food flavours as highlight them, as does Italy`s light sparkling Prosecco. The best of Italy`s white wines have tremendous character and in the case of Pieropan a certain golden lustre and vibrant minerality. Do try a bottle!

Last but not least is sweet wine and the happy practice of dunking almond biscuits, a speciality of northern Italy. Using mats to dry the grapes and concentrate both flavours and sugar levels, Veneto produces its pale gold Recioto di Soave while Tuscany has its deep, orange-coloured Vin Santo.

White

Red

Rose

Sparkling

Sweet